LZ-2 CG Study Model (WIP)

[Charles Adams]

Now that LZ-1 is basically done (and while I pause to make sure it is really correct before making drawings), I am moving on to LZ-2. This time there is plenty of good reference to make an accurate model.

Just for kicks I decided to start with a model of the framework (attached). I have no intention of building the entire frame -- as it is, just this section is over 140 Megabytes! But it's really neat to see in 3D exactly how this thing is put together.

[Charles Adams]

I'm finding the most difficult part of creating patterns for these early Zeppelins is recreating the gondola. The hull of the ship comes together very quickly, but much more effort is required to create the gondola and then do all the rigging (and there is a LOT of rigging on these early models!).

Here is my first attempt at the gondola for LZ-2. Fortunately there is more reference available on this model than just about any other airship I have ever seen! So I am able to recreate it quite precisely.

The purpose of this exercise is to see how accurately I interpreted the geometry. It definitely needs some tweaking so I will be rebuilding it shortly. But it's not too far off for a first try. . .

Besides, remember I am working strictly from photos and having to interpret and then recreate the geometry without even one plan view drawing as a base line! :)

[Charles Adams]

Round two and the gondola frame is now complete. Some very minor tweaking left to do, but it's pretty much dead on at this point (certainly as close as I think anyone is going to get without access to the original construction plans!).

Now I have to "skin" the frame to complete the work. I doubt I'll be able to achieve this degree of accuracy with any other Zeppelin models unless some really good photos of the gondolas become available. So far I have seen none except of LZ-2, and there are only a few good photos that show any real detail inside the gondolas of other ships.

If you know of any such photos that would help someone build a more accurate gondola for any Zeppelin, please let me know! :)

[Charles Adams]

I finally had some time to get back to work on this. I've been trying to come up with a straightforward and practical way to build a large scale model of a rigid airship. From what I've seen others do, the most authentic way to build such a model seems to be making a framework and covering it with silkspan or plastic film (I'm leaning toward silkspan). I am building for display only and so I have no need to make the model lightweight.

Using silkspan requires a wood frame but I don't want to get stuck building a delicate structure or one that needs a lot of jigging. I have been using Gatorboard for quite a while now and I think it is an excellent choice for this project. Gatorboard is extremely strong, very lightweight, and dimensionally stable. It just won't warp (unlike Foamcore which warps terribly -- don't ever use that stuff!). It's extremely difficult to cut though. But it can be laser-cut beautifully!

I wanted a frame design that I could cut with the laser and that would use a minimum of wood parts. The structure shown here is based on a Gatorboard frame in 4 parts. The "keel" is laid down first in a left or right half and then bulkheads applied to that. 1/8-inch balsa stringers and special laser-cut balsa spacers are then laid down over the Gatorboard parts (this actually requires very little laser-cut balsa -- most of the wood is standard strip stock). The whole thing is designed to be self-jigging by way of laser engraved reference lines on the parts. Once a hull half is completed, it is mated to a similar half to build an entire hull.

The real trick here is that, to remain scale, the longitudinal stringers must be positioned so their corners face outward. The way the original frame was designed, only the ring frames have flat outboard edges. The longitudinals are triangular in cross section with the tip or point of the triangle facing out. This gives very little surface to adhere the covering material but it won't look accurate unless the stringers come to a point where they meet the covering.

The mounting will be via fishing line and fishing tackle! When the two hull halves (left and right) are assembled, fishing line will be inserted between them and anchored inside the frame. The fishing line will have a quick disconnect about 6 inches above the hull where it can be attached to a hanging line. Two of these pieces of tackle (one fore and one aft) will provide an overhead mounting system for the model.

This model will be 1/48 scale. I know that sounds huge but for this ship the hull will only be about 9 3/4 inches in diameter which is not really that big at all. It will be long, however, at 8 feet 9 inches but should not take up too much ceiling space when hung high in a room. Then again, these kinds of models belong in a museum and I have a really good air museum nearby, so who knows where it might end up if it looks good when completed. ;)

I absolutely love large scale models. When using computer techniques to make your patterns, it takes about the same amount of effort to pattern a model no matter what size it is built. I can't imagine going to all this trouble only to build a small, desktop-sized model. So why not make a really big one?

I chose this subject for three primary reasons:

This is an early Zeppelin and those versions are rarely, if ever, modeled -- I've never seen a model of either LZ-2 or LZ-3 anywhere.
The hull design is simplified compared to later models which makes this an excellent project for starting out in airship modeling.
I have more reference on this ship than just about any other early Zep.

[Charles Adams]

OK, a little tweaking of the nose section framework and I think this hull is ready to build. :) More supports are needed where the curve becomes more pronounced. I think I have the process down so doing other Zeps should be easier and faster from now on.

The one real bear in doing this is making patterns for the ring frames when using longitudinal stringers that are turned on edge. A stringer normally has a cross section that is a square. When you turn it 45 degrees, it becomes a diamond. That makes it MUCH trickier to know how to notch the ring frames to ensure each stringer is in exactly the right place. When all the ring frames are different as on later Zeps, this will be a bear!

Fortunately I have my CG toolbox handy. Without these tools, I don't think I would even want to try patterning something like this. :) The best part of all is knowing everything will fit. The CG mockup tests the fit of every part in 1:1 scale to the finished model. If all the CG parts align and fit together, the real model will go together just as well -- that is, as long as things are built square and level. ;)

[Rick Sizemore]

Charles,
Great work by the way. What CG engine are you using? DO you have a CAD program that your using to make the patterns or does the CG engine have a built in drawing engine? I am realy new at this Scratchbuilding thing. I have "put together" hundreds of plastic kits. How ever I only just started building from scratch. Any tips or guides one should follow will be helpfull! :confused:

Thanks Rick S.

[Charles Adams]

I use Rhino to do all my CG modeling. I start by drawing the subject in a computer illustration program. (I use Freehand, but many different programs are out there and they all do basically the same thing.) I then import those drawings into Rhino to build the CG parts. This is very quick and easy because my drawings are configured specifically as patterns for construction in CG.

Drawing with a computer illustration program is much easier than drawing in a CAD program. Believe it or not, you can use both approaches to achieve the same result. Since it is very precise, many people swear by CAD. But I can't build a model to tolerances of thousandths of an inch, and I don't know anyone else who can, either. So a computer illustration program can make drawings which are plenty accurate enough for modeling -- and they are far easier to use.

You will need to know the basics of drafting in order to make patterns for a scratchbuilding project. There is a lot to it, but the process is not that difficult once you get the hang of it. I'm finishing an entire book on this subject which I've been working on all year. The book starts out teaching the basics of drawing in the computer and then moves on to how to make blueprints. Once that is explained, I then demonstrate how to make patterns from the blueprints. I hope to have it completed and available this fall.

Volume 2 of this series will discuss how to make patterns for 3D models. It will also discuss the use of 3D tools for the physical modeler. I have developed techniques that can be used to accurately recreate subjects working from nothing but photographs. The less information you have, the harder it can be to come up with accurate patterns. The advent of 3D modeling tools gives the modeler new ways to work around these challenges.

Hope that helps! :)

[Charles Adams]

OK, finally back to work on this. I'm starting fresh with a whole new model, scaled in 3D to 1/48. The previous gondola frame is being reused but everything else is brand new.

So far I have designed the boxed elevators and boxed rudders. The hull is complete with all frames in place. I've started on the prop struts and the rigging.

Once this is complete, some modifications will yield a nice model of LZ-3! :)

[FlyTexas]

She's looking great! :cheers:

Brian

[Paul Adams]

Charles,

That looks great - very nice work!

OK, finally back to work on this. I'm starting fresh with a whole new model, scaled in 3D to 1/48. The previous gondola frame is being reused but everything else is brand new.

So far I have designed the boxed elevators and boxed rudders. The hull is complete with all frames in place. I've started on the prop struts and the rigging.

Once this is complete, some modifications will yield a nice model of LZ-3! :)

[Charles Adams]

Thanks!! I've also gone back to the drawing board on the structure of the scale model. I really prefer Dan Neuman's approach of using longitudinal formers rather than stringers. I think these could be laser-cut out of thin styrene (maybe 040) to create the "knife edge" effect that is needed at the transition point between the hull facets.

I'm still experimenting with an all-styrene hull, similar to a paper model but with lengthwise gores instead of developed cone shapes. In theory, the frame design I now have in mind could work for either a traditional model covered in paper/silkspan/Monokote, or a model with a styrene skin.

It will be interesting to see how this new approach works! I'm hoping it could lead to a practical, large-scale kit for airship enthusiasts. :D

[Charles Adams]

More progress. I added the keel structure and some more rigging. I may not have time to actually build any physical model structures for a while longer, but I will continue doing design work and developing patterns in the meantime.

At this point, I believe I now have sufficient information to complete accurate blueprints for all the major pre-war Zeppelin types, at least a-h and possibly through type m. The one challenge is that the tail surfaces sometimes changed from ship to ship even within the same type. Sufficient photo reference may not be on hand to nail down the exact tail structure for every ship. I'm trying to get some additional photo references to fill in any gaps. Hopefully, before the end of this year I'll have accurate drawings of LZ-1 through perhaps LZ-17.

[McTodd]

Fascinating thread, Charles, and progress is looking great - good luck!

[Charles Adams]

Happy Easter everyone! :)

Some more progress (actually completed yesterday). The gondola frame has now been "skinned." This sort of thing is probably easier in real life on a physical model than it is in 3D. :eek:

The frame of the gondola appears to be the same on LZ-2 and LZ-3. The very front of the gondola is unique on LZ-2 in that it houses a radiator, engine-driven radiator fan, and radiator shroud (similar to the type found on most RWD automobiles). The fan is turned by a chain-driven shaft that runs below the floor level. This is connected by a chain gear to a pulley on the top of the engine.

On LZ-3, the radiator was moved to the rear of the gondola. The front was filled in making it look very much like a boat. Only then the frame horns stick out which looks a bit odd, but this is how the front of the gondola is mounted to the hull via two metal tubes (with pinched ends).

You can learn a lot about these ships by recreating them in 3D!! :D

[Charles Adams]

Here the radiator assembly itself has been added. The hose connection on top is in the correct place to match that used on the actual airship. The lower hose is hidden in all photos and so it represents a best-guess. BTW, all this is precisely modeled in 1/48 scale. :)

[bbrigham]

Hi Charles,
While bouncing through the discussion boards, I saw your call for image resources which would help someone building gondolas for airships, "any" airships.
Well, I was given a copy of a quarterly mag called "Rassegna" as a gift. Rassegna isn't airship-related per se, it's an architecture/interior design magazine. But when they publish a quarterly, man do they ever go hog wild. The 1996 publication III (ISBN: 88-85322-25-5) is all about airships, and it's from the perspective of designers, aesthetes and engineers. There are high-resolution photos of gondolas, girder structures, patterns, hangars, posters, etc., and a great shot of the Graf keel walkway amidst a cathedral of girders. I've never seen most of these photos before or since, nor other editions of the magazine itself for that matter. It's a rare bird.
Because it emphasizes minutiae, you'll get a little bit about a lot of things, seemingly mundane images of how a main ring attaches to a longitudinal, or nosecone structure comparisons between the LZ-2 and 129. Because I don't find these images just anywhere, it is a great general reference resource. (wartime designs are noticeably absent)
Re: gondola images: there's a great one (sans skin) of the LZ126 and an okay one of the Bodensee. If you have an immediate need for either, let me know and I'll scan it for you. But any airship afficianado would be lucky to have this edition in their library.

[FlyTexas]

*cough, cough* scanner *cough, cough* Ahem, excuse me. :innocent: :D

Brian

[Charles Adams]

Wow! What an unusual resource! :WOW: How difficult would it be to scan the whole issue? I'd love to see anything and everything you can send. I'm working on plans for several different airships and need all the reference I can get. I'd gladly pay you for a copy of the issue on CD, etc. Let me know. . .

Thanks!! :D

[bbrigham]

Hi Charles,

Uuh, that would be difficult to do the whole thing. :oof: I'll scare up what scans I've already made from the book and send you those. I'll also see if I can send you some low-rez shots of some open pages and maybe you can steer your specific needs that way.
Not to discourage you from doing the Akron/Macon, but the magazine's focus seems to be exclusively on the European designs, about 95% German, 5% Italian. LZ126, 127 and 129 get the best coverage, with earlier designs so-so. That's probably more due to availability of quality photos than anything.
If you can score a back issue, you'd be one happy dude.
But let me see what I can do over here for you. You can carry this thread over to regular email if you like: bjaminb@yahoo.com

[bbrigham]

FlyTexas:

Er....why, yeeeesss. 'Scan' with my eyes. What did you think I meant?
:D

[joec]

Charles,

Have you gone any further on your airship plans? It looks like you've got great plans to go by. Do you have photos of any of your other models posted on here?

You are much advanced in your research so I don't have anything useful as far as drawings or photo's to add I'm sure, just a few books that are commonly available.

Joe C

[Charles Adams]

Hello!

I have been concentrating on doing one ship at a time and taking all the time needed to do it right. That is taking quite a while. I've been collecting books and photos over time. It takes a lot of effort (and $$) to collect it all. But I am slowly finding what I need to compile some nice plans.

Since so little info is available on early German rigids in terms of drawings, I'd like to complete those first. The newer ships are far more popular and drawings exist for many of them. But no one outside the Zeppelin company has seen drawings of the earliest models. I hope to change that. But, it's going to take a while to get it done.

Not to worry, I will keep plugging away. When I have more progress to report, I'll be posting updates here. :)

Charles

[joec]

Great to hear, looking forward to seeing more.

JoeC